Napoléon 1806: La Campagne de
Prusse
(Shakos, 2019) is the first game in the Conquerors series by designer Denis
Sauvage and French game publisher Shakos. Since it was released, two more games
in the series, Napoleon 1807: la Campagne de Pologne (Shakos, 2021) and Napoleon1815: Waterloo (Shakos, 2022), Rumour has it the next Conquerors game in
the series will be Napoléon 1870 (pertaining to Napoléon III and the
Franco-Prussian War – one can only hope).
Napoléon 1806 is also the third game completed from my own 6x6 challenge. After six runs at this game, I’m still not sure I can speak with any real authority about it without making it seem somehow less than it is. It’s true, it’s the most rudimentary of the three games; 1807 offers a multitude of scenarios compared to 1806’s two, while 1815 brings the option of a third player to the mix (again, with a higher number of scenarios). In case I forget later, in the tall grass of the review, I’ll mention now that 1806 is an absolute gem of a game, a finely wrought puzzle, a balancing act, and a game that will reward repeat plays with new insights.
Appearance
The production values in Napoléon 1806 are as good as the best-produced games I own. Nicolas Treil’s artwork is at once evocative of the subject and the era, and quite beautiful in its own right. All the action and a lot of the activity takes place on the 24"x24" mountedgame map, and presented to appear like a Napoleonic-era map, complete with spyglass, compass, and map-creases. The movement is point to point, the distance between points representing around five or six miles. The map also contains the game’s turn track, scoring-track, and a placeholder for a weather event card, which I’ll come back to.
While
Napoléon 1806 is technically a block game, it takes
a quite different approach than the Columbia or Worthington block games you may
be familiar with. Rather than having a unit’s status represented by pips on the
block which you rotate to indicate its current health, a unit’s status in a
Conquerors series game is recorded on a separate, concealed board. This board lists
all of that side’s marshals, each with his own track to indicate the strength
and health of his troops. Each marshal has a corresponding block on the Board
with that leader’s name and portrait, and any special abilities he brings to
the table (this information is replicated, slightly more readably, on the
tracking board).
Napoleon and his marshals, with pennants and retreat markers in the foreground. |
The blocks themselves are coloured in an appropriate dark blue for the French and grey for the Prussians. Every block has an eagle on its reverse, opponent-facing side, French Eagle and thunderbolts and Prussian crowned eagle (the Alliance blocks in Napoléon 1807 feature the Russian double-headed eagle on appropriately green blocks). The intention is that during play, when a block had been activated – regardless of whether the formation had managed to act during its activation – it would be turned upside-down, so the little arrowhead at the top of the eagle would point downward and make it clear to both sides it had been activated that turn. By our second game we found ourselves placing them face-down instead to more clearly indicate activation.
French Order of Battle |
With it’s
separate Tracking boards, referred to in the game as Orders of Battle, coloured
blocks – two colours for each side to distinguish infantry and attached cavalry
– and orange cylinders, as well as the wooden playing pieces and track tokens,
you could be forgiven for mistaking Napoléon at first glance for Euro-style resource
management game. Part of the game’s charm is its emphasis on tactile experience,
and it does indeed have an aspect of resource management in maintaining the
operational efficiency of your forces while pushing them to the limits of their
endurance. The blocks feel weighty and move ponderously along the paths. Every
loss of a block or gained exhaustion cylinder is a visceral reminder of the precarious
state of your army. Other wooden components are also provided, standing pennants on poles to indicate the control of citadels (or to provide the enemy with a visual reminder of their target destinations), and little arrows to be used as a mnemonic for the direction of retreat for an attacking force.
The Prussian Order of Battle after a narrow victory by the French. |
The game
leans heavily on the use of symbols and illustrations to convey the meaning of
rules and actions in play. The shields for the force tracking boards are
usefully decorated with the game’s symbology, succinctly explaining what can
and cannot be performed at each step of the action. Everything in the game is
at once decorous and informative, an elegant synthesis of design and communication.
The
game comes with a box-sized, four-page Quickstart booklet which will (after
stickering up the block for play) will allow you to get straight into play. The
quickstart guide strips the game back to its essentials (movement and combat), offering a good
grounding in how to play, but leaving enough meat on the carcass to still
provide a challenging experience. If you are looking for a fast game, you might
be happy enough to stick to the quickstart rules for your first couple of goes.
Even at three turns, the first couple of games are probably going to run to
about 45 minutes to an hour.
The Quickstart rules set-up guide. |
The
Rulebook s 24 pages in length, printed on good gloss paper-stock. It’s been
produced in full colour and with copious illustrations, and with a pleasant,
buff background that is merciful on the eyes. The first thirteen pages cover
the “Rules for the Recruit”. This is the meat and potatoes of the game,
covering in a little more detail what has been sketched out in the Quickplay
rules, but incorporating the start-of-turn card draw, the use of Actions, Rain and other hindrances, and a few more details that enrich the play experience. The remaining pages introduce the “Rules for the Grognard”, optional rules
spelling out the free-placement guidelines and the use of the Cavalry Vedettes
blocks, “Rules for the Marshal” which cover tournament play, some notes on the card
events and actions, and a brief (three-page) history of the campaign,
interspersed with designer’s notes.
Every
aspect of the production is of excellent quality, from the wooden components to
the poker-weight cards in the two decks. My only grumble (given my age and
history, I’m entitled to one from time to time) would be that the Order of
Battle cards, while a pleasing weight of card (about 2.5mm thickness) have developed
a slight camber and don’t lay perfectly flat, but while the use of a thinner
card would have rectified this, it wouldn’t have been sturdy enough to ensure
the shield stays in place around the board. For that, it’s an inconvenience I’m
prepared to put up with.
Play
For
such a gamey-looking game, Napoléon 1806 offers a satisfying simulation of l’Empereur’s
Prussian campaign. You’re not going to get the granularity of a
regimental-level simulation (à la Hexasim’s Eagles of France series),
but the game achieves what it sets out to do.
Victory
in Napoléon 1806 can be secured in a number of ways. The scoring is kept on a
pendulum table, starting at ten. Twenty points on the board will secure a
French Victory immediately; in the unlikely event the Prussians can beat down
on the French hard enough to get the score to zero, they will win. After seven
rounds (a fortnight in game time) if the French haven’t secured victory, it’s a
default win to the Prussians – the home team must hold out long enough for
international support to arrive. A sudden death victory can be won by one side controlling
all four citadels at the beginning of their turn. The Prussians start with
three – Eufurt, Halle and Leipzig, while the French begin with Bamburg as their
home base. On the remote chance that one side kills/captures the others leader,
that will also result a sudden death victory,
Napoléon
1806 runs on its cards. Each side has its own deck of thirty-six cards, much
like Combat Commander (GMT Games, 2006), and like that game, cards fill
in for several roles, including dice damage applied in combat. Each card has a
points value printed in the corner (1-5 for the Prussians, 1-6 for the French).
These points are used for both determining initiative and establishing how far
an ordered unit can move, if at all. The cards provide mandatory events and tactical
options, and determine the amount of damage inflicted on the enemy in combat.
Bernadotte and Soult harass Halle and Leipzig as Napoleon considers his next move. |
At the beginning of a turn, the players simultaneously draw cards from their draw deck and compare the number, with the highest point-value winning the initiative for that turn (meaning that player goes first, with the French winning ties). Then the players draw three cards each for their hands. There is no hand-size limit in the Conquerors series, so a player can end up with more cards in their hand than in their deck if they’re not careful. Cards in hand can be used for their Actions, usually small perks that can offer an edge in combat or movement when played at the appropriate time.
There
are two types of Actions, before play Actions – assuming you have some in your
hand, you can play one of these at the beginning of each turn, before any
action has taken place. (they’re marked with a light blue title banner at the
top) – and in-turn Actions – these are the ones you may play before combat, gain
and extra step of movement, or to shrug off some exhaustion (marked with a
green banner). Some Cards actually have Automatic Events instead of Actions;
these are marked with a Red banner, and if you draw one of more of these at the
start of the turn, you need to play it immediately. Some are punitive (such as
preventing one of your formations from acting in that turn), but most are Rain
events; there is a place-holder box on the map for a Rain card, below the Turn
track, to remind the players of the change in conditions. Rain effects movement
and exhaustion for everyone for the turn. At the end of the turn, the Rain card
is removed and goes into the appropriate player’s discard pile.
A lucky play that paid off. |
In a
turn, starting with the established initiative holder, each side will take turns
“conducting an operation”. This involves choosing a corps or a stack of units,
declaring what you would like the to do, then drawing a card from your draw deck
to see if chance and fate agree with your intention. Most often, the order will
be to move, either to a fixed position, or along a path as far as the points
will allow the formation to go. The currency is one point will allow one unit
to move one space. If you’re moving two units together, the first point is
spent coordinating the two units, then every point after may be spent on
movement. Three units in a stack, you’ll need a 3-point card draw to move them
just one space. There will be reasons at various times to have units moving together
as one, but it going to take a toll on your manoeuvrability.
There’s
also the matter of exhaustion. Units and even stacks can move up to three
spaces without any ill-effects, but for each space above three the unit – or every
unit in the stack – is going to take an exhaustion point. Exhaustion points are
an abstraction of the wear and tear on an army on manoeuvre over an extended
period of time. A little exhaustion is tolerable, but it can build up very
quickly and sometimes unexpectedly.
With Halle and Leipzig in French hands, Napoleon takes Eufurt for the game (a sudden death victory in Turn 6). |
Below
the Strength Points track for each leader/formation is an Exhaustion Points
Track. Each time a unit takes an exhaustion hit, a little orange drum is added
to this row. Say you draw a 5-point card and move Lannes five spaces because
you want him to get past an intersection before a Prussian unit has a chance to
cut him off; congratulations – you made it, but Lannes’ corps will now be two
exhaustion points wearier. Two points aren’t that big a deal, but exhaustion
accrues in other ways as well. If the turn has a Rain event, all movement will
add one point of exhaustion to every unit moving, whether their card draw
actually allows them to move or not (and added to that, it will cost an extra
point to get those chaps moving, along with any stack penalties – Rain is as
much an enemy as the opposition).
When
you get into combat (which you will want to do, especially playing the French, as
this is your best chance to shift the Victory Point marker in your favour) you will
not want to be carrying to much exhaustion into battle because fighting is
itself exhausting. Even if you win, your forces may come out of it with enough
accrued exhaustion to push you up to the limit, which is nine points. A corps
can carry up to eight points exhaustion, but if it goes over that for whatever
reason, it is eliminated (there’s a handy little memento mori of this on
the Exhaustion track – a little skull on the nineth position to say it’s over).
Kalckreuth creeping dangerously close to complete exhaustion. |
This
isn’t to say that once you’ve accrued exhaustion you’re stuck with it. At the
end of each turn, any units that haven’t been activated (i.e., are still
upright) can lose ALL their exhaustion. But that’s the cost, they can’t have
done anything for that turn. And choosing not to activate a formation may not
be a guarantee; if they happen to be attacked by an opposing force whale they
are trying to sit quietly, they’ll be classed as having been activated, and
they may well gain even more exhaustion into the bargain.
Combat resolution
is tied to the cards as well. Each unit will bring one or two cards to the
fight. Some leaders gain an extra card, some Actions may offer another (or
lower the opposition’s card-count), and in some cases, environmental factors
will come to play; defenders gain an extra card draw for wooded terrain or
defending a walled citadel.
A rare strong defence for the Prussians (three hits, and nine exhaustion), though those two Destroyed Bridges cards may have been more useful in his hand.. |
Combat
is conducted simultaneously: after establishing how many cards each side gets
to draw, each player draws that number of cards, laying them out face-up in front
of them. The cards present the damage inflicted in a box in the lower left corner.
Orange circles mark exhaustion points taken, while squares with crosses
overlaid indicate the physical damage inflicted on the force’s collective strength.
Damage and exhaustion is shared out over the participating formations as evenly
as possible (at the discretion of the owning player), and if there is a
mispatch in the physical damage dealt, the higher damage recipient retreats. Single
engagements will rarely see units annihilated (except perhaps by exhaustion),
but they can be brutal. The total damage to each side is compared, and the
difference is added to or subtracted from the Victory point track, in favour of
the victor.
Appraisal
Napoléon
1806 is an extraordinarily finely balanced game. The French are the more
effective fighting force. They have eight formations to the Prussians nine
(though Werternberg doesn’t enter the game until Turn 5), and five cavalry
units to the Prussians’ two), reflecting Napoleon’s superior theatre intelligence
and the independent command of his forces. The Prussians field weaker forces;
the average strength across the French corps is a shade under 6.4 blocks, while
the Prussians average at 5.3 blocks per corps). They are forced into a reactionary
posture; to some degree they must respond to the intentions – real or implied –
of the French. They don’t really have the option of taking the fight to the
enemy wholesale. The French superiority in command in control is reflected in
their deck spread:
But the
Prussians are playing a waiting game; all they have to do is run out the clock
to guarantee a default win – not one shrouded in glory, but not an ignominious
loss either. It is incumbent on the French forces to engage the enemy and
inflict losses, which will translate to points, and to take the Northern
citadels, which means they have to cover a lot of terrain just to reach their
objectives. Fast movement means a swift accrual of exhaustion points. A corps
can shake off all of its accrued exhaustion points by remaining inactive for a
turn, but that hands the Prussians another turn to reposition themselves into a
better defensive state, or to block a crucial chokepoint. Or allows them to
attack while you’re still carrying all that exhaustion.
Drawing three cards every turn potentially removes a lot of cards from circulation. Having useful Actions to play – like the Destroyed Bridge card for the Prussians – can make an outsized impact on the unfolding drama of the game. But the cards with the most crucial actions are inevitably have point-values, and these will often have superior combat results as well. In such a finely-balanced game, maintain a balance between your holdings and your potential draw pool is crucial.
The final turn; Prussian victory after the French fail to gain distance swiftly enough. |
On the
face of it, Napoléon 1806 may seem like a one-trick pony. According to the box-description,
the game has three scenarios, a short (three-turn) getting-to-know-you game for
those either unfamiliar wargames or just new to this one, the full seven-turn historical
campaign, and a free-set-up option for the campaign game (places available to
the two armies to set up in are marked by a French or Prussian Eagle). In fact,
the Quickstart rules and the rulebook (pg. 15) offer alternative set-ups for
the three-turn game, so there are arguably four scenarios included.
But this is a game of hidden depths. The paths through Prussia are tricky; there is always a way around, but it may be prohibitively distant, or take you even further from your objective. The cards can be fickle and using the same 36-card deck for every activity will see you burning through it a few times in a game. It's a tough gig for the French - they have to cover a lot of ground, and negotiate a dozen or more choke-points, to get the bulk of their forces north to threaten and harass the Prussians three held citadels. Each is worth three or four points; that's not to be sneezed at when a ten-point lead will secure victory. But France's Achilles heel is Bamberg. If left unprotected, a Prussian formation and some lucky movement-point draws could snatch the city and victory from them before they've begun to prosecute their campaign.
But that doesn't mean it's a cakewalk for the Prussians. The enemy has their work cut out for them, but they are faster, hit harder, and their formations are better-equipped to prosecute martial action. The natural choke-points in the paths offer some advantage, but there are multiple paths north, and you can't adequately guard them all. If you can run down the clock (at seven turns) you will win a minor victory, but it can feel like a long seven turns as you lose ground and French corps manage to slip past your blockades. Nearly every game I've played of Napoleon 1806 has got to the end of the fifth turn with both sides still having a good chance of taking the win. With so many variables at play, nothing is ever a foregone conclusion.
I have
some suspicions about prudent courses of action in the game, things that might
work in particular circumstances within the game, but I don’t think it’s the kind
of situation that allows a player to find one path to victory that works every
single time. And that’s a good thing. Napoleon 1806 is a game that will
challenge you with new problems and entice you with hereto unseen opportunities
each time you come to it.
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